Aug. 22—SAN ANTONIO—The last time the Express-News had a conversation with Robbie Nowlin, it was 2011 and he was leaving San Antonio to take a job as a chef de partie at The French Laundry in Yountville, California.
The chef spent nearly two years at one of the top restaurants in the world. He returned to the city where he cut his cooking chops to spend more time with his son, Keller.
The experience and move paid off.
Nowlin, 30, recently was named executive chef at Hotel Valencia Riverwalk, where he oversees Citrus, Vbar, in-room dining and banquets.
Nearly two months in, he introduced new menus for dinner at Citrus and snacks at Vbar. A new lunch menu is coming soon, and Citrus will add Sunday brunch this fall.
Nowlin, who dropped out of high school and culinary school at St. Philip’s College, continues to make the most of the opportunities he’s been given.
“This is a very forgiving industry,” he said.
How old were you when you started cooking?
I started cooking at 14 in a corporate restaurant. I never like saying it; it was Olive Garden. My mom was a manager there so she got me a job at 14 years old when you couldn’t get a job. So I got a hardship license. I went to a real, real, real kitchen at 17. That was Bistro Vatel. I worked for Damien (Watel) for 3 1/2 years. That was the first taste I got of working in a kitchen. Then I was at Jason’s (Dady) at 20 to 26. Then, The French Laundry 26 to 28. Then, Omni La Mansi?n del Rio for a little over a year. Now, I’m here.
What was it about this experience that was appealing?
I remember being a young kid and going to events with Jason and seeing Jeff Balfour (former executive chef at Hotel Valencia) have micro greens that were alive and thinking that was super awesome at like 20 years old. The hotel is super sleek and sexy and noncorporate, all the things that I like, so it kind of seemed like it was meant to be when I heard this job was available.
How is this hotel experience different from your other hotel experience?
La Mansi?n was the first hotel I ever worked at. I was given an opportunity by John Brand to do that because being a chef de cuisine of a four-diamond hotel without hotel experience at all doesn’t happen. I sure as hell wouldn’t have gotten this job if it wasn’t for the Omni. The experience at La Mansi?n and seeing the high level of banquets they do there really prepared me for this experience.
What were some of the most important things you wanted to do on this menu?
To reflect that it was my cuisine and we weren’t trying to do what Jeff Balfour was doing, not that that was bad. I think people expect a certain level of food from me. So changing it to a personality-driven cuisine and a product-driven cuisine was important to me. I never write a dish without seeing an ingredient, ever.
How frequently will it change?
I’m probably going to be changing dishes on the menu weekly. About every month or so it will be completely changed.
How would you describe San Antonio’s dining scene?
I think San Antonio has been this family, close-knit community when it comes to the culinary arts. I think it’s been cool that the old guard is embracing the new guard, Bruce (Auden), Andrew (Weissman), Jason (Dady), Mark Bliss. I think it’s very refreshing.
What are some of your favorite spots in San Antonio?
Today, I went to Cascabel for the first time and it was awesome. I don’t know why I had never been there. We had both of their moles. It was delicious. Feast, I love that restaurant. I think Stefan Bowers knows how to make food have more flavor than any other chef in town, bar none.
There are rumblings of you starting a supper club. What’s going on?
I told myself, I was raised poor. I didn’t have a dad. My mom was a single parent. ... I’m in a position now that I might as well have fun. This isn’t going to last forever. Let’s invite 10 people over one Sunday a month for free. And I’m going to pay for the food.
Does it have a name?
Wicked Nights at Wickes. I’ll do the first one, then host guest chefs at my house. It will be like a King William supper club basically. There will be some sort of social media to figure out who’s invited. The idea of this is you can come in for free, but we’re going to do some sort of donations for charity. I’ll feed the foodie friends, and they’ll bring donated food.
What is your role at the ruins at Hot Wells Hotel?
Culinary curator. The county wants to make Hot Wells an historic landmark. They want to create basically what they did with the missions.
Does that mean restore or preserve what is there?
Preserve the ruins and add on this educational garden for public schools of San Antonio. So, they can tour the gardens and learn to eat more responsibly.
What’s the plan for next year’s Harvest Dinner at Hot Wells?
The idea is 1,000 people with 30 chefs. We did 17 booths this year and 620 people came. I want to double it for next year.
What else are you working on?
I’m doing Culinaria Agave Celebration, Oct. 24-26. Jeret Pe?a is in charge of cocktails; I’m in charge of food. There are going to be 10 chefs over the three days. Saturday will be the big tasting-style event.
jmcinnis@express-news.net
Twitter: @JenMcInnis